Barbarian Days: Surfing Life in the 1960s and 1970s

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

4.6 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	11593 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
X-Ray	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	466 pages
Screen Reader	:	Supported

FREE

In his acclaimed memoir Barbarian Days, William Finnegan vividly captures the essence of surfing life in the 1960s and 1970s. Finnegan, a former staff writer for The New Yorker, spent his youth traveling the world in search of perfect waves. Along the way, he encountered a cast of unforgettable characters, including legendary surfers like Miki Dora, Gerry Lopez, and Jeff Hakman.

Finnegan's writing is both lyrical and evocative, transporting the reader to the sun-drenched beaches and crashing waves of the surfing world. He describes the thrill of riding a perfect wave, the camaraderie of surfers, and the unique culture that has grown up around this beloved sport.

The Evolution of Surfboards

The 1960s and 1970s were a time of great innovation in surfboard design. Surfers began to experiment with new materials and shapes, creating boards that were faster, more maneuverable, and more durable than ever before. One of the most significant developments of this era was the invention of the shortboard, which allowed surfers to perform more radical maneuvers.

Finnegan traces the evolution of surfboards in great detail, from the early days of wooden boards to the development of fiberglass and polyurethane foam boards. He also discusses the impact that new surfboard designs had on surfing style and culture.

Iconic Surfers

The 1960s and 1970s were also a time of great surfing talent. Some of the most iconic surfers of all time emerged during this era, including Miki Dora, Gerry Lopez, and Jeff Hakman. These surfers were known for their innovative surfing styles and their fearless approach to waves.

Finnegan profiles these legendary surfers in depth, capturing their unique personalities and describing their greatest surfing moments. He also explores the impact that these surfers had on the sport of surfing.

Surfing Culture

Surfing is more than just a sport; it is also a way of life. Surfers have their own unique culture, which is characterized by a love of the ocean, a respect for nature, and a sense of community. Finnegan provides a fascinating glimpse into this culture, describing the rituals, traditions, and beliefs of surfers.

Finnegan also explores the dark side of surfing culture, including the dangers of surfing, the problems of drug abuse, and the environmental threats to the ocean. He does not shy away from these difficult topics, but he ultimately celebrates the positive aspects of surfing and the unique community that has grown up around this beloved sport.

Barbarian Days is a must-read for anyone who loves surfing or is interested in the history of the sport. Finnegan's writing is both beautiful and insightful, and he captures the essence of surfing life in the 1960s and 1970s like no one else. This book is a classic of surfing literature, and it will continue to be enjoyed by generations of surfers to come.

Image Credits

• Surfer riding a wave by Surfers Journal
• Surfer paddling out by Surfers Journal
• Surfer catching a wave by Surfers Journal

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

4.6 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	11593 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
X-Ray	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	466 pages
Screen Reader	:	Supported

FREE